Revival of Indian Traditional Textiles: Bridging the Gap between Heritage and Modern Demand

Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister, once said: “The history of India may well be written with textile as its leading motif. In khadi, which has come to be referred to as the fabric of India, we triumphed in the liberation war. No other nation in the world has access to as many thriving cultures and traditions as does ours.”

Accounts of India’s remarkable textiles often express admiration for their ancient techniques and aesthetics. The popularity of these traditional textiles has recently surged in the fashion industry. Consumers today are making more conscious choices, tending to favour products that align with their personal values and beliefs. As a result, there is a heightened demand for goods that are authentic and reflect cultural heritage.

Traditional textiles carry a rich history and substantial cultural value. They are often handmade, using techniques passed down through generations by skilled artisans. These textiles are not merely aesthetically pleasing, but also hold emotional and symbolic significance in many societies. In recent years, however, the production and consumption of traditional textiles have dwindled due to the advent of modern technologies and globalisation. As mass-produced synthetic materials have become widespread in the fashion industry, valuable knowledge of traditional textile-making techniques has diminished.

 

Fortunately, a growing trend towards reviving traditional textile-making techniques is emerging. Local organisations and governments are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of preserving and promoting cultural heritage and have initiated programmes to support artisan communities. Thanks to independent designers incorporating these textiles into their designs, traditional textiles are finding a new market.

By bridging the gap between heritage and contemporary demand, traditional textiles can retain their cultural significance while adapting to evolving fashion trends. This not only ensures the preservation of cultural traditions but also provides financial opportunities for artisan communities.

Handloom Development Schemes

India’s handloom tradition, known for its exquisite craftsmanship, has long been a representative and preserver of the country’s rich culture. Globally renowned, the distinct hand spinning, weaving, and printing techniques employed by Indian loom weavers are integral to this tradition. These artisans primarily operate in rural towns and villages, where skills are handed down from one generation to the next.

To foster growth and progress in all textile industry subsectors, the government must establish “level playing fields”. This means ensuring healthy competition, while supporting policies that maintain employment opportunities within these traditional crafts.

Here are the top 5 Handloom Development Schemes that Government of India has initiated:

1. The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP)

Operational for the financial years 2021-2022 through 2025-2026, the strategy uses a need-based approach to provide weavers with raw materials, technology upgrades, design inputs, marketing help through exhibits, and permanent infrastructure in order to promote the holistic growth of handlooms and the welfare of handloom weavers.

2. The Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS)

The CHCDS is a significant initiative undertaken by the Indian government to develop and enhance the handloom sector by establishing ‘mega handloom clusters’ that integrate all the necessary facilities and services for weaving, dyeing, design development, and marketing. The scheme focuses on bolstering the economic stability of handloom weavers, uplifting their living standards, and preserving traditional handloom crafts. By supporting artisans through the entire production chain and creating more robust market linkages, CHCDS fosters the sustainability and competitiveness of the handloom industry.

The eight mega handloom clusters (with at least 10,000 handlooms) where this scheme is currently being implemented are: Murshidabad (West Bengal), Bhagalpur (Bihar), Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Virudhanagar (Tamil Nadu), Prakasam and Guntur districts (Andhra Pradesh), Sivasagar (Assam), Godda and neighbouring districts (Jharkhand), and Trichy (Tamil Nadu).

3. Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS)

The programme intends to offer handloom workers and weavers across the nation an accessible, universal social security. Insurance provides protection against natural death, accidental death, as well as total and partial disability.

4. Weavers Mudra Scheme

The programme’s objective is to enable banks to meet the working capital and term loan requirements of the country’s handloom sector swiftly and efficiently. Under this programme, handloom weavers are eligible for credit at a special six per cent interest rate. Additionally, a 3-year credit guarantee as well as a maximum ₹10,000 in margin money support is provided to weavers.

Mudra Portal has been built in partnership with Punjab National Bank to minimise delays in the disbursement of cash for margin money and interest subvention.

5. Yarn Supply Scheme through the NHDC

The Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS) is being carried out throughout the country by the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC). Its aim is to make all types of yarn available at Mill Gate Price.

All varieties of yarn are eligible for freight expense reimbursement under the scheme. Hank yarn made of cotton, wool, domestic silk and linen also qualify for a 10 per cent price discount with quantity restrictions.

The programme maintains weavers’ participation in the handloom sector by providing superior quality yarn at lower prices than the open market through depots.

How can Gap between Heritage and Modern Textiles be Bridged?

Heritage and modern textiles represent different eras, styles, and methods of textile production and design. Modern textiles feature cutting-edge designs and technologies, while heritage textiles, passed down through centuries, embody traditional aesthetics. Bridging the gap between these two types of textiles can be achieved through various techniques that blend both modern and traditional practices.

Rural textiles are renowned for their deep understanding of mass and volume, with colour being a vital design element. Strong, vibrant colours such as red, black, yellow, and blue are often used. India is highly praised by art critics for its exceptional ability to balance these elements. At times, a single colour in two tones may dominate. Rural designs tend to be highly geometric, often featuring exact or harmonious repetition in bands or regularly spaced patterns.

One approach to bridge the gap is to combine traditional and contemporary techniques. Here, cutting-edge technologies can enhance the quality and durability of traditional textiles. For instance, the colours of heritage fabrics could be revived using modern dyeing processes to meet contemporary market demands. Modern equipment can also reduce the production time of traditional textiles.

Another approach involves providing education and training in traditional textile production methods. This can involve educating local artisans and communities about the significance of their cultural heritage. The history and beauty of traditional textiles can be showcased through workshops and exhibitions. Training programmes can be implemented to help skilled artisans refine their craft.

A third strategy involves integrating modern patterns and colours with traditional materials. Contemporary trends, patterns, and motifs can be incorporated into traditional textiles through digital printing. This not only promotes traditional textiles but also aligns them with market expectations.

Lastly, to boost demand for traditional textiles, digital marketing and e-commerce platforms should be strategically utilised. By establishing an online presence, small-scale textile producers can tap into modern market opportunities and promote their products globally. Digital trade and marketing initiatives emphasising the cultural and historical significance of traditional textiles can also support the industry.

Thus, a combination of strategies, melding traditional and modern technology and design, is needed to bridge the gap between heritage and modern textiles. Through education, creative techniques, and marketing innovation, a harmonious blend of the past, present, and future of textile design and production can be achieved.

How can Fashion Designers Help with Revival of Traditional Textiles?

Bollywood may have popularised the typical designer saree with all its glitzy embellishments, but traditional weaves with their understated elegance continue to captivate. Consider the delicate gossamer chanderi, kanjivaram, banarasi, and tie-dyed fabrics from Rajasthan. India boasts a vast array of textiles, which contemporary designers are keen to draw from and reinterpret in fresh, avant-garde ways.

Indian fashion designers such as Ritu Kumar, Krishna Mehta, Rahul Mishra, and Anita Dongre are working tirelessly to preserve traditional fabrics. Anita Dongre, for instance, launched the Grassroots line a few years ago, a brand dedicated to showcasing India's handmade traditions. Through Grassroots, she partners with a network of esteemed NGOs in India that pioneer work with artisans, aiming to present these traditional methods to the global audience.

Ritu Kumar, an art history student turned acclaimed fashion designer, is an influential figure in conserving Indian textiles, serving as a beacon for preserving the country’s heritage. She is internationally recognised for her work in Indian textile conservation and revival. In her book, ‘Costumes and Textiles of Royal India’, she writes, “Documenting the legacy of textiles and costumes of an older order is like driving a stake into the flux of time to create a point of reference.”

Designers like Amy Billimoria advocate for the revival of traditional textile traditions and fair compensation for skilled artisans, along with better working conditions. Using various warp and weft processes, these designers produce many fusion and modern styles, appealing to fans of contemporary fashion. This culture of reviving old artistic practices not only enriches India’s heritage but also supports the craft of cloth-making, translating it into timeless beauty.

Despite the beauty of these textiles, many crafts are currently dying out as younger generations opt for more practical professional paths. The sad reality is that these traditions endure through being handed down from parents to their children. Many of today’s young people are not interested in continuing the practice, as they see little financial gain in it.

Highlighting these crafts is essential to provide artisans with their deserved pride, dignity, fair wages, and decent living conditions. We must ensure that these traditions endure and inspire the next generation to uphold their ancestors’ legacy. As the country progresses with the use of power looms, we must continue to protect our handloom tradition and culture, with designers collaborating to preserve the craft.

Artisans may not fully understand modern tastes and trends. Many designers believe it is their duty to bridge this gap. Thus, they create designs and commission the artisans to produce them, applying modern designs to traditional materials. These products appeal to a broader audience due to their contemporary style while preserving the artisans’ skills and traditional work.

Here are some ways in which fashion designers can contribute to the revival of traditional textiles:

Collaboration: Designers can partner with artisans, weavers, and textile manufacturers who specialise in traditional textiles to create distinct designs and products. Such collaborations can help preserve and promote traditional techniques.

Education: By educating consumers about the cultural significance and value of traditional textiles, designers can raise awareness and boost demand. This, in turn, can support local artisans and their communities.

Innovation: By incorporating traditional textiles into innovative and contemporary designs, designers can appeal to a wider audience. This showcases the versatility of traditional textiles, bringing them into a modern context.

Sustainable Production: Designers should emphasise sustainable production methods. Using natural dyes, minimising waste, and other eco-friendly practices ensure that the creation of traditional textiles is not only beneficial for local communities but also environmentally sound.

In summary, fashion designers can play a crucial role in reviving traditional textiles by promoting their use, educating consumers, innovating with new designs and techniques, and advocating for sustainable production practices.

Ending Note

In conclusion, the resurgence of traditional textiles signifies a positive stride towards the preservation of cultural heritage and the promotion of sustainable practices within the fashion industry. By supporting this trend, citizens not only appreciate the beauty and significance of traditional textiles but also empower communities, contributing to a more ethical and conscientious industry.